Method of sewing



Feb. 15, 1938. M. BUONO METHOD OF SEWING Original Filed April 2, 1937 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 cm/6 2m ORNE Y5 Feb. 15, 1938. M. BUONO 2,108,101

METHOD OF SEWING Original Filed April 2, 1957 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 ENTOR Feb. 15, 1938. BUONQ 2,108,101

METHOD OF SEWING Original Filed April 2, 1937 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 NVENTOR TTORNE VS M. BUONO METHOD OF SEWING Feb. 15, 1938.

, 1957 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Original Filed April 2 VENTOR Patented Feb. 15, 1938 METHOD OF SEWING Mario Buono, Brooklyn, N. Y., assignor to U. S. Blind Stitch MachineCorporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Original application April 2, 1937, Serial No. 134,-

470. Divided and this application August 13, 1937, Serial No. 158,898

4 Claims. (Cl. 112-267) This invention relates to a new and improved method of sewing.

One of the objects of my invention is to pro-- vide a method which can be practiced by applying an attachment to well known blind-stitch machines of the type which have a curved needle, which is caused to oscillate, although the invention is not limited to any particular type of blind-stitch sewing machine.

Another object of my invention is to provide an improved method which will perform the class of work which is known as tacking, so as to eliminate the necessity of the hand labor which has heretofore been employed for this class of work, and to produce an improved tackmg. I

Other objects of my invention will be set forth in the following description and drawings which illustrate various preferred embodiments thereof, it being understood that the above statement of the objects of the invention, is intended generally to explain the same, and without limiting it in any manner.

Fig. 1 is a side elevation showing the essential parts of a blind-stitch sewing machine of conventional construction, to which an attachment has been applied for carrying out the improved method.

Fig. 2 is a front elevation of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a plan view on the line 3-3 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is an elevation, on the line 4-4 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 5 is a sectional view, partially in elevation on the line 5-5 of Fig. 3.

Fig. 6 is a sectional View, partially in elevation, on the line 6-6 of Fig. 3.

Fig. '7 is a sectional view on the line 1-l of Fig. 3.

Figs. 8 and 9 are detail end elevations, largely diagrammatic, and showing the adjustment of the means for regulating the stitch and for making allowancefor different thicknesses of cloth.

Fig. 10 is a diagrammatic detail perspective view showing the means for regulating the stitch.

Fig. 11 is a perspective view illustrating the improved stitch. 1

Fig. 12 is a view similar to Fig. 5, and showing a modification of the invention.

\ Fig. 13 is a sectional view on the line l3-l3 of Fig. 12. I

Figs. 14 and 15 are detail sectional views, showing the operation of the means for regulating the stitch, in the embodiment of Fig. 12.

Fig.-14 is a View which is generally similar to Fig. 15, but showing the regulating finger in a different position. Fig. 15 is a sectional view on the line l5- l5 of Fig. 12.

Figs. 16 and 17 are diagrammatic detail views, illustrating the regulation of the stitch, in the embodiment shown in Fig. 12.

Fig. 18 is a sectional view, partially in elevation, on the line |8-I8 of Fig. 12.

Fig. 19 is a sectional view on the line Ill-I9 of Fig. 18.

Although the invention is not limited to the manufacture of coats, it will be described in connection with such manufacture, as an example.

In making womens cloth coats, it has been known for many years to provide cloth facings at the separated longitudinal edges of the front Walls of the coats.

According to my invention, the facing strip is connected to the body of the coat, inwardly of the edge of the coat, by blind stitches, so as to provide an improved stitch connection.

Referring to Fig. 1, this shows the head i of the machine, and the needle-holder 2, mounted on the usual oscillating shaft 3. The usual curved needle 4 is connected to said needle-holder 2.

Fig. 1 also shows the well known looper 5, the looper rod 1, and the yoke B for said looper-rod l. The looper 5 is detachably connected in the well known manner to an extension la of the looperrod 7. The yoke 6 is pivotally mounted at 8 in the usual manner.

According to my invention, I'provide an improved rib member R, which will be later described in detail. Said improved member R is mounted upon the rib-shaft 9, and said shaft 9 is Caused to oscillate in the usual manner. The machine is also provided with the usual rigid plate l0, which is rigidly connected to the head i, by means of the yoke II. This yoke H may be integral with the plate ID.

The machine is also provided with the usual feed dog I2 which is actuated in the usual manher, so as to have the usual four-motion relative to the rigid plate l0. As shown in Fig. 3, the plate ID is provided with the usual slot Hla, in which the feed dog l2 can operate.

The work is generally designated by the reference letter W.

Prior to finally sewing the work by means of @1011 of facing strip 211 can be connected to the 1 body portion of the coat by means of the conventional basting stitches, close to the line of stitches S. These basting stitches are not shown, since they are well-known and they are pulled out of the garment, after it has been finished. The use of basting stitches can be omitted.

The inner edge of the facing strip is now bent towards its outer edge, so as to form a top layer Y 210. of the facing strip.

Part of the work then consists of the single layer of cloth of the body 28, and part of the work consists of three layers of cloth, namely, the body 28, facing strip 21, and the top layer 21a of said facing strip. The top layer-21a can be made of any suitable width, but it is preferably much narrower than the remainder of said facing strip. I prefer to make said top layer 21a as narrow as possible.

The auxiliary device shown in Figs. 3 and 4 may be used in assisting the operator to form said top layer 21a in an accurate and even manner.

Figs. 3 and 4 show a table 50 which is located in front of the sewing machine. This table 58 may be fixed or it may be vertically adjustable.

Said table 58 supports a laterally adjustable metal gauge plate 5|. Said plate 5| may be supported on top of a bushing 52, which is connected to table 50. As shown in Fig. 3, plate 5| has a transverse slot 53. A clamping screw 54 clamps plate 5| to bushing 52. The lateral slot 53 makes it possible to adjust said plate 5| so as to allow for facings of different widths, and to make it possible to fold a facing along any desired line.

The cloth is fed between the bottom surface of the rigid plate l0 and the usual fingers -|4, which yieldably support the work. These fingers l4 are pivotally mounted at [5 to the arms of fingersupports 22. The rib R, and certain other essential parts of the device, all of which are located underneath the rigid plate ID, are connected to an extension of the housing I6. Said housing I6 isturnably mounted in the usual manner, so that the machine can be adjusted for cloth of diflerent thicknesses. As shown in Fig. 1, the sewing machine is provided with the usual base l6a, having an upright-flange H. The housing I6 is provided with the usual spring (not shown) A screw I8 is mounted in the lug I9 of the housing l8, and said screw I8 is provided with the usual lock nut 20. The end of the screw l8 can abut the flange l1, so as to limit the turning of the housing l6, under the force of its associated spring, so that the distance of the rib below the plate Hi can be adjusted. An adjusting screw 2|a is provided for regulating the force of the spring which is connected to the housing l6.

As shown in Fig. 1, the'machine also has the usual springs 2|, which are connected to the sup ports 22 for the fingers l4. These supports 22 are pivotally mounted at 23, and since the fingers l4 are connected turnably at l5 to arms of said supports 22, said fingers 4 can turn relative to said supports 22.

As shown in Figs. 8, 9, 14, 15, 16, and 17, the improved rib-member R is provided with separated ridges 24 and 25, separated by an intermediate portion 26, which has a general concave contour.

As the-work W is fed through the machine, a part of the body 28 of the garment is fed between the underside of a regulating finger 30 or 3011, and a part of the intermediate portion 26 of the improved rib E. This regulating finger 38 or 35a constitutes a part of the-improvement.

The ridge 25 is of smaller diameter than the with an integral lug 34.

ridge 24. As shown in Figs. 8 and 9 for example, only a single layer of fabric is bent to form a bight, by the ridge 24, and the three layers of the work are supported by ridge 25, when the stitch is formed. While the invention is not limited to the particular class of work illustrated in Figs. 8, 9, and 11, the greater number of layers of the material are fed over the ridge of smaller diameter.

As shown in Fig. 7, the regulating finger 30 is provided with a lateral arm 3|. Said lateral arm 3| is movable laterally, without turning, in a guide 32. Said guide 32 has an angular plate 33, which can be connected detachably by means of a screw or the like, to the upper surface of the plate It), and which is connected to the box-like guide 32 in any suitable manner.

The lateral arm 3| of the finger 30 is provided As shown in Fig. 3 and Fig, 18, said lug 34 can be provided with .a tapped bore, and an adjusting screw 35 is located within said tapped bore. The adjusting screw 35 is mounted in a bearing 35a, which is provided in the extension of the plate 33. The screw 35 is provided with a knurled head 36,. A spring 31, which is connectedto the extension of the plate 33, holds the knurled head 36 yieldably in position. Hence, by operating the knurled head 36, the finger 30 may be shifted laterally, or in a direction transverse to the direction in which the work is fed through the machine.

Referring to Fig. 8 and Fig. 9, these can be best described with reference to a reference line 40..

in Fig. 8, one lateral position of the finger 30 is indicated in broken lines by the reference numeral 48a. In Fig. 9 another lateral position of the 1mger 38 is indicated by the reference numeral 40h It can be seen that the finger 30 can be adjusted laterally so as to vary the distance between said finger and the ridges 24 and 25.

The adjustment shown in Fig. 9, in which the finger 38 is moved close to the ridge 25, .is intended to adjust themachine for sewing thin goods. The position of the finger 30 which is indicated in Fig. 8, shows the position which is suitable for sewing thick goods. It will be noted that the curved needle 4 oscillates inthe usual manner, along a recess 4| in the plate l0. As shown in Fig. 8, the needle passes through the cloth at the bight 42, which has been formed by means of the ridge 24, so that a blind-stitch is formed which is invisible at either face of the body of the garment. The needle also passes through the fold of the facing strip, at the line 43, so as to form ablindI-stitch which is invisible at the inner face of the facing strip, when the layer 21a is free to assume its normal position,

by invisible stitches.

If the machine is adjusted as shown in Fig. 8, in order to sew relatively thick goods, and the same adjustment is maintained in sewing relatively thin goods, the stitch will show at the inside of the facing along the line43, when the work -is completed. However, if the finger 30 is shifted closer to the ridge 25, and the fold of facing strip at line 43 is formed closer to said ridge 25, the stitch is regulated so as .to form a blindstitch along the line 43, because the folded edge of the facing strip intersects the path of movement of the curved needle, at a higher part of said path, so as to form a more shallow stitch. The work passes underneath the finger 39; between the lines 62 and 43, so that one side face of the finger 30 acts as a guide for the feeding of the folded edge of the facing strip,

As shown in Fig. 10, the stitch is formed in advance of the front end of the finger 36, and in advance of the front ends of fingers 60 and 60a, which hold the work down upon said ridges 24 and 25. These fingers 60 and 60a are preferably of concavo-convex contour in cross-section, and their concave faces hold the work down upon the ridges 24 and 25. As shown in Fig. 41, said fingers 6-D and 60a are respectively provided with bearing portions 70 and 10a which are mounted suitably and turnably on a pivot pin which is connected to extensions of the plate 10. Torsion springs BI and 61a of the usual type are provided, so as to urge the fingers 26 and 26a towards the ridges 2d and 25.

While I do not wish to be limited to the specific contour of the parts, the improved contour and proportioning and association of the parts of the attachment are important for best results, and these details are illustrated in Figs. 12-19 inclusive.

Figs. 14, 15, and 19 show the preferred shape of the finger 39a. which corresponds to the finger 39 shown in Fig. 10. As shown in Figs. 14 and 15, the bottom surface of the finger 30a is bevelled at H, so as to present a suitable and very thin bottom edge. The bottom surface of the finger 30a is bevelled in the direction of the ridge 23. Likewise, the ridge 2 is formed with a shoulder Ma, so that the ridge 25 has an inner -wall or face of substantially annular shape. which is perpendicular to the axis of the rib R. As shown in Fig. 15. the bevelled face H of the finger 30a is shaped, so that its height in a direction perpendicular to the axis of the rib, is substantially equal to the height of said inner annular face of the ridge 24, and if said finger 30a is moved to the position shown in Fig. 15. the lines which define the cross-sections of the bevelled surface H and the inner annular surface of the ridge 24 and the shoulder 24a. substantially form the three sides of a right-angled triangle Figs. 14 and 15 are substantially according to scale and they show the shape of the rib R and of the finger 30a in full and correct detail. so

that they correspond substantially to working drawings of a preferred embodiment.

Figs. 18 and 17 also show that the fingers iii) and 60a are of different lengths, the finger 60a being longer than the finger 60, as shown in Fi 13. This allows for the greater thickness of the cloth when a plurality of superposed layers of the cloth are fed over the ridge 25.

Fig. 19 also shows that the front edge of the finger 30 is rearwardly inclined. and that the bo tom line of the bottom edge of the finger 30a is of general convex contour. Fig. 19 is also according to scale and represents, in effect, an accurate working drawing of the rib R, the finger 36a,

and the finger 60a.

nesses of cloth.

The preferred type of machine is a chain stitch machine, although the invention is not limited to the use of a chain stitch. A lock-stitch machine could be employed without departing from the invention. If a chain stitch machine is utilized, this pierces the single layer of the work at the points 42a, and it pierces the folded part of the facing strip at the points Ma.

The chain stitch is elastic, so that after the work has been completed, the fair side of the coat or other garment does not exhibit any wrinkle or indentation and the garment has the same appearance as though the expensive hand work had been used.

Due to the convex shape of the bottom edge of the finger 30a, only a very small part of said underside of the finger 30a contacts with the top surface of the cloth, intermediate the ridges M and 43. Likewise the deep concave shape of the rib between the fingers 2 1 and prevents the work from binding or dragging between the finger a and the intermediate portion 26 of the rib.

Likewise the angular shape of the rib 2i, which is provided by the shoulder 241a, prevents the work from dragging along the inner edge of said rib 2t. As shown more particularly in Fig. 17, the natural hang of the cloth and the shoulder 2 1a prevent any contact between the downward bight of the cloth, and the inner surface of the ridge 2 3.

It will be noted that Fig. 15 illustrates an extreme position of the rib. in order to illustrate the contour of the parts. but that in actual practice. the extreme position of the finger 30a is better shown in Fig. 16. However, the tapered configuration of the finger 30a. prevents the work from being crowded into the angle between the inner annular surface of the rib 2 1, and the shoulder 240.. This s clearly illustrated in 16.

As shown in Fig. 8, two bights are formed in the layer of material 28. which may be designated as the first piece of fabric. One of these bights, indicated by the reference numeral 12. is laterally and outwardly spaced from the folded edge of the superposed layers of material 21 and 21a. The other bight. which is formed by the member 25, is under said layers of material 21 and 21a, and this second bight is spaced inwardly from the folded ed e which is identified by the reference numeral 43.

By regulating the lateral distance between the bight in the fabric 28, and the folded edge of the layers 21 and 21a,a true blind stitch can be formed which is invisible upon the fair side of the work.

I have shown preferred embodiments of my invention. but it is clear that numerous changes and omissions could be made without departing from its spirit.

The rib R shown herein is of the type whichdoes not contact with the work while it is being fed by the feed-dog. Said rib is moved into operative position after the feed has been completed. I do not wish to be limited to this detail.

As shown in Figs. 8 and 9, a bight or fold is formed in the body of the garment by ridge 2d, and a much more shallow bight is formed in the body of the coat by ridge 25. The folded edge of the facing has no bight, or a very shallow bight is formed therein.

The machine may be used for performing any class of work.

For convenience, and to define the invention generically, the body of the garment may be designated as the first piece of cloth, and the facing strip can be designated as the second piece of cloth. That portion of the facing strip which is fold portion of said strip.

In the preferred method of operation, the effective surface of the rib is lowered so that the feed-dog can feed the work forwardly with little or no friction, because the underside of the finger 30 or' ita contacts with the body of the garment,

along only a very small area. At this point the cloth of the body of the garment may either be spaced from the portion 25 of the rib, or else the cloth of the body of the garment may make very light contact with a small part of the bottom edge of the finger 30a andthe adijacent'small part of the intermediate portion 26 of the rib. After the feeding stroke has been completed, the rib is operated so. as to raise the cloth relative to the slot Illa. of the plate In, so that the needle can o'perate as shown in Fig. 8 and in Fig. 9. However, various devices can be used, in addition to the rib described herein, in order to do this class of work without departing from the invention. In particular, while the ridges 24 and 25 are each of uniform radius, I do. not wish to be limited to this detail. i

'As shown in Fig. 1'7, for example, the rib is shaped intermediate the ridges 24 and 25, so that the work can hang freely between said ridges 24 and 25 and without any substantial contact or friction.

For the purposes of the invention, it is to'be noted that the work can be definedas hanging freely between said ridges 24 and 25, if the work can be fed forwardly. without dragging. Likewise, while the portion 26 of the rib is mainly of concave contour (in cross-section) between the ridges 24,and 25, said intermediate portion 26 of the rib has a change in contour adjacent the 1. A method of sewing a second piece of fabric to a first piece of fabric and while the second piece of fabric is on top of the first piece of fabric, which consists in folding the second piece of fabric so that it has two superposed layers located one above the other and above the first folded edge thereof.

2. A method of sewing a second piece of fabric.

2,108,101 folded along line 43 may be designated as the to a first piece of fabric and while the second piece of fabric is on top of the first piece of fabric, which consists in folding the second piece of fabric so that it has two superposed layers located one above the other and above the first piece of fabric, the upper layer being narrower than the under layer, forming two bights in the first piece of fabric, the first bight being laterally and outwardly spaced from the foldedf edge of said layers, the other bight being under said layers, and forming connectingblindstitches in the first piece of fabric and in the folded portion of the second piece of fabric, by passing thread through the material of said first bight intermediate the faces of said first piece of fabric and through the second piece of fabric substantially at the folded edge thereof, said blind stitches be-' ing formed sufiiciently close to the edge of the top layer of the second piece of fabric so that the top layer of the second piece of fabricwill lie against the first piece of fabric when said top layer of the second piece of fabric is released to assume its normal position.

3. A method of sewing a second. piece of fabric to a first piece of fabric and while the second piece of fabric is on top of the first piece of fabric, which consists infolding the second piece of fabric so that it has two superposed layers located .one above ,the other and above the first piece of fabric, the upper layer being narrower than the under layer, forming two bights in the first piece of fabric, the first bight being lat erally and outwardly spaced from the folded edge of said layers, the other bight being under said layers, and forming connecting b'lind' stitches in the first piece of fabric and in the folded portion of the second piece of fabric, by passing thread through the material of the first bight interme-' diate the faces of said first piece of fabric and also through the second piece of fabric substantially at thefolded edge of said layers, said stitches being sufiiciently elastic to prevent the formation of a wrinkle at the fair surface 'of said first piece of fabric.

4. A method of tacking a facing strip to a body portion of a garment, which consists in sewing the body portion to the-facing strip at the edges of said body portion and of said facing strip, turning the facing strip inwardly so that it overlies the body portion and also folding the facing strip so as to provide two superposed layers thereof which are located above the body portion, said layers being of different widths and the narrower layer being above the wider layer, the free edge of said narrower layer being the free edge of the facing strip, forming a bight in the body portion ong a line which is outwardly and laterally spaced from the folded edge of the layers of the facing strip, and then forming blind ,stitches which 'are invisible at the fair side ofthe fabric through the material of the body portion at said bight and through the layers of the T facing strip at the folded edge of said layers.

MARIO Bu0No. 

